Ana Serrano

Ana Serrano studied Conservation and Restoration of works of art at the Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia-Universidade Nova de Lisboa, specializing in textiles. Her Master thesis focused on the study of cochineal dyes, and this evolved into a PhD project in History (thesis entitled “The Red Road of the Iberian Expansion: Cochineal and the global dye trade”), funded by the Fundação para a Ciência e Tecnologia, and carried out at the Centre for Humanities (CHAM, FCSH-Universidade Nova de Lisboa), and at the Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands (RCE).

Currently, she is a researcher at the RCE's Conservation & Restoration department, and she is mainly involved in a collaboration with the University of Amsterdam, in the context of two projects: one dedicated to the investigation of a collection of 17th-century maritime archaeological silk fragments, found in the bottom of the Wadden Sea, The Netherlands; and another, to the assessment of the weaving construction of knotted-pile carpets, through non-invasive techniques. She is also a correspondent researcher at CHAM and she owns her own freelance company, AFAS – Historical Colours Research, which dedicates to the material and technical characterization of historical textiles.

Email: afaserrano13@gmail.com

PUBLICATIONS

 

Books

Serrano, A., The Global Trade of Cochineal in the Early Modern World, Palgrave Macmillan, London, accepted for publication in 2021.

 

Peer-reviewed papers

2015 Serrano, A., Doel, A. van den, Bommel, M. van, Hallett, J., Joosten, I., Berg, K. J. van den, “Investigation of crimson-dyed fibres for a new approach on the characterization of cochineal and kermes dyes in historical textiles”, Analytica Chimica Acta, 897, pp. 116-127.

2013 Serrano, A., Bommel, M. van, Hallett, J., 2013, “Evaluation between ultrahigh pressure liquid chromatography and high-performance liquid chromatography analytical methods for characterizing natural dyestuffs”, Journal of Chromatography A, 1318, pp. 102-111.

2013 Serrano, A., Sousa, M., Hallett, J., Simmonds, M. S. J., Nesbitt, M., Lopes, J. A., “Identification of Dactylopius cochineal species with high-performance liquid chromatography and multivariate data analysis”, The Analyst, 138, 20, pp. 6081-6090.

2011 Serrano, A., Sousa, M. M., Hallett, J., Lopes, J. A., Oliveira, M. C., “Analysis of natural red dyes (cochineal) in textiles of historical importance using HPLC and multivariate data analysis”, Journal of Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry, 401, pp. 735-743.

 

Articles in Magazines

2016 Bommel, M. V., Serrano, A., Joosten, I., 'De textielcollectie BZN17 chemisch ontsloten, het eerste onderzoek naar de gebruikte materialen in het textiel', Archeologisch Kroniek van Noord Holland, Provincie Noord-Holland, pp. 177-185.

2015 Serrano, A., “De luxe van kleur: Kostbare kleurstoffen voor exclusieve kledij / The Luxury of Colour: precious dyes for exquisite clothing”, Magazine van Museum Catharijne - Het Geheim van Middeleeuwen Gouddraad En Zijde, March, pp. 13–15.

 

Theses

2016 Serrano, A., The Red Road of the Iberian Expansion: cochineal and the global dye trade, PhD Thesis, Faculty of Human and Social Sciences, New University of Lisbon.

2010 Serrano, A., Cochineal, a Precious Source of Red - Cochineal Dyes Characterization by High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Diode Array Detection and Principal Component Analysis, Master Thesis, Faculty of Sciences and Technology, New University of Lisbon.

 

Reports

2018 Serrano, A., Bommel, M. V., Joosten, I., 'From the bottom of the sea to the display case: research on archaeological maritime silk textiles for long term preservation. Part I' report, University of Amsterdam & Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed.

2017 Bommel, M. V., Serrano, A., Joosten, I., “Chemical analysis of BZN17 textiles”, University of Amsterdam & Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed.

2011 Serrano, A., Bommel, M. van, Hallett, J., “The Red Road of the Iberian Expansion: cochineal and the global dye trade”, ARCHLAB Transnational Access BM/C2RMF/NGL, CHARISMA ARCHLAB User’s Reports.

 

Conference Proceedings

'Kleuren uit de Nieuwe Wereld: de assimilatie van Amerikaanse kleurstoffen in 16e en 17e eeuwse Europese textielcentra', Studies in Textiel, Textielcommissie, accepted for publication in 2019.

 

Online Publications

2018 Serrano, A., Art Ness Proaño Gaibor, Jenny Boulboullé, 'The Art of Dyeing Silk – Workshop on colour reproductions of historical recipes and dialogue about practical skills', web article, TTT website.

2017 Serrano, A., 'A Time Capsule at the Bottom of the Sea', web article, TTT website.

2017 Serrano, A.,'The Red Road of American Cochineal', web article, TTT website.

2017 Serrano, A., 'Material Investigation of Historical Textiles', web article, TTT website.

2017 Serrano, A., 'Colours on Textiles: How Natural Dyes Shaped Our View of Colours', web article, TTT website.

2016 Serrano, A., Doel, A. van den, “Cochineal Characterization in Historical Textiles with Models from Partial-Least Squares Discriminant Analysis”, tutorial released online on GitHub.

COMMUNICATIONS

 

Invited Speaker

2018 'CarpetACT: Automated interpretation of X-radiographs and CT scans to assess Islamic carpet construction', International expert meeting “Revealing Hidden Letters”,  Museum voor Communicatie, The Hague, 5 June.

2018 'From the bottom of the sea to the display case: part II', Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed meeting, Amsterdam, 19 March.

2018 'From the bottom of the sea to the display case: research on archaeological maritime silk textiles for long term preservation', BZN17 Archaeological Textiles meeting, Huis van Hilde, Castricum, 1 February.

2017 'Kleuren uit de Nieuwe Wereld: de assimilatie van Amerikaanse kleurstoffen in 16e en 17e eeuwse Europese textielcentra', Natuurlijk Kleuren Symposium, Textielcommissie, Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed, Amersfoort, 9 November.

2017 'From the bottom of the sea to the display case: part I', Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed meeting, Amsterdam, 22 May.

2016 “Wetdress: Maritime archaeological silk textiles found in the Wadden Sea”, Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed meeting, Amsterdam, 14 November.

2016 “Wetdress: Material technical analyses”, BZN17 Archaeological Textiles meeting, Huis van Hilde, Castricum, 31 October-1 November.

2016 “The Red Road of the Iberian Expansion: cochineal and the global dye trade”, NICAS Colloquium, Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, 29 September.

2015 “The Red Road of the Iberian Expansion: cochineal and the global dye trade”, Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed meeting, Amsterdam, 16 June.

2012 “ARCHLAB Transnational Access - The Red Road of the Iberian Expansion: cochineal and the global dye trade”, CHARISMA Joint TNAs ARCHLAB-MOLAB-FIXLAB User’s Meeting, Netherlands Cultural Heritage Agency, Amsterdam, 30 November.

2010 “The Colour of Textiles: weaving History with Science”, Meetings about Art and Empire, CHAM, Faculdade de Ciências Sociais e Humanas, Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Lisbon, 25 October.

 

Call for Papers

2017 'A time capsule at the bottom of the sea: a material study of 17th-century textiles found in the Wadden Sea', 36th Dyes in History and Archaeology, Royal Society of Chemistry Historical Group, The Royal School of Needlework, London, 26-27 October.

2016 “Crimson Red and the Changing Patterns of Consumption of Insect Dyes, in Early Modern European Dress”, Dressing The Early Modern Network Conference, University of Bologna, Bologna, 15-16 September.

2014 “The Red Road of the Iberian Expansion, cochineal and the global dye trade: characterization of crimson textiles dyed with scale insects using UHPLC and multivariate statistical analysis”, 33rd Dyes in History and Archaeology, Royal Society of Chemistry Historical Group, University of Glasgow, Glasgow, 30 October.

2011 “A New Methodology for the Analysis of Cochineal Dyes in Historical Textiles”, 30th Dyes in History and Archaeology, Royal Society of Chemistry Historical Group, University of Derby Enterprise Centre, Derby, 14 October.

2010 “Cochineal, A Precious Source of Red”, Colours, Early Textiles Study Group (ETSG), Welcome Collection Conference Centre, London, 20 November.

 

Contribution in other communications

2014 Falcón Álvarez, T., Serrano, A., Bommel, M.R. van, “La influencia del Tezuatl (Miconia Spp.) y el Tlaliyac (sulfato de hierro) en las Formulaciones de la Laca Roja de Grana Cochinilla, según las Recetas de los informantes de Fray Bernardino de Sahagún”, IV Congreso Latinoamericano de Arqueometría, Museo Nacional de Antropología del Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia, Ciudad de México, México, 31 October.

2012 Hallett, J., Claro, A., Serrano, A., Santos, R., 2012, (talk) “Textiles, Trade and Taste. A research project about the global circulation of colour”, Textile Archaeology and Conservation, India International Centre, New Delhi, 17 October.

POSTER PRESENTATIONS

 

2016 “Cochineal Dyes in Historical Textiles: an Accessible Approach with Partial-Least Squares Discriminant Analysis”, 35th Dyes in History and Archaeology, Royal Society of Chemistry Historical Group, University of Pisa, Pisa, 5-8 October.

2014 “The Red Road of the Iberian Expansion: Cochineal and the global dye trade”, CHARISMA - Cultural Heritage Advanced Research Infrastructures: Synergy for a Multidisciplinary Approach to Conservation/Restoration, Florence, 5-7 May.

2013 “Evaluation between UHPLC and HPLC analytical methods for characterizing natural dyestuffs”, 39th International Symposium of High Performance Liquid Phase Separations and Related Techniques, RAI, Amsterdam, 16-20 June.

2012 “A New Method for Characterizing Dyestuffs with Ultra high-Performance Liquid Chromatography”, 31st Dyes in History and Archaeology, Royal Society of Chemistry Historical Group, Katoen Natie HeadquARTers, Antwerp, 18 – 19 October.

Share this page